We travel to explore places, discover the unknown; to get exposure to something ‘new’. Sometimes, all the thirst for newness & grandeur can be quenched by stepping into one’s own backyard.
We’re pretty lucky when Cape Breton Island and the start of the Cabot Trail is the backyard. Since deciding to tackle the Cabot Trail by bicycle this Autumn, I’ve begun to venture further distances than usual, in preparation for the challenge.
To my surprise, most of my chosen routes could be leisurely enjoyed by any traveler renting a bike from us. The beauty, events and sights of my own ‘backyard’ left me in awe, and tsk tsking myself that it took me so long to step beyond the ‘normal’ boundaries/routines of home.
Here’s the route I journeyed around the Iona Peninsula – that’s the strip of land you view from our front porch here at the guesthouse.
While having driven this route several times by car, there is something to be said about seeing the world from the seat of your bicycle. There’s more time to observe, to listen, to smell. You become sensually engaged in your environment.
To cycle the Iona Peninsula, cycle in the direction of Baddeck for 4 km before turning off at Exit 6 to Little Narrows. Ride aboard the cable ferry, “Caolas S’ilis”, which runs 24/7 and free for cyclists.
Then hang a right on the #223 after stopping at the MacKenzie’s Country Store for water and any snacks you may need!
Follow the lake’s shoreline as you zip by some very cute cottages and the Little Narrows Beach, where you might want to stop for a picnic. While the view is amazing from Bear on the Lake, when you visit the opposite shoreline, you’ll get a real appreciation for those rolling mountains behind the guesthouse!
September is the best time to cycle on Cape Breton. Less traffic on the main roads, sunny days with warm day temperatures but the slight crispness of the autumn in the air to keep you cool.
You’ll cycle past Portage Road – this road would take you towards Orangedale with the option of getting back on HWY # 104 outside Whycocomagh. This is a great ride if you have less time, but today we’re in for the long haul!
Everything was so quiet that sunny Sunday afternoon, just myself, gears clicking, crickets in the woods, and dragonflies racing alongside. There was rarely a vehicle, the only thing passing by was a huge hawk overhead!
*(Note to self - keep camera in front pocket of backpack!!)
As you cycle along, you catch glimpses of the old rail line. If you have time, you may wish to drop in to the Orangedale Railway Station, which dates back to 1886! It’s a great stop if you choose to take Portage Road cycle another day!)
There will be a few rolling hills to climb, but you won’t regret the effort when you are rewarded with views like these!!
After passing through the tiny villages of Ottawa Brook and Jamesville you will enter Iona, home of the Highland Village Museum where you’ll receive a “Fàilte gu Cridhe Gàidhealach Albainn Ùr” (Welcoming to the Highland Heart of Nova Scotia).
Here one can spend a day walking through this ‘living history’ museum, while gaining an appreciation for the Gaelic culture and traditions past and present on Cape Breton Island.
After exploring the charming Highland Village and try learning ‘Canan nan Gaidheal’ , { our Gaelic Language}. Try to fit your tongue around these Gaelic phrases… De tha dol? = What’s going on? . Tha i breagha an diugh, Tapadh leibh. = It’s lovely today, Thank you!
Continue on to towards Plaster Cove with gorgeous outcrops of the white rock jetting out in the blue waters.
Perfect photo opportunities from MacCormack Picnic Park!
There is a little beach further up, just past Chantal’s Antiques store.
Get your legs ready! You’ll be going steadily up hill for the next few kilometers! But don’t worry – the downhills will be worth it!
From the viewpoint at Maskells Harbour see if you ca spot Baddeck & the home of Alexander Graham Bell, Beinn Bhreagh, on the far shores!
You should feel pretty proud as you head back to the cable ferry!
You’ve just completed part of the Bras d’Or Lakes Scenic Drive!
Sometimes the sweetest things in our travels, are the unexpected, unplanned and unexplainable…Some days, just breaking the normal routine can put you in a traveler’s frame of mind and see your own backyard from a new perspective.
xo fr. Salt Mountain




































































